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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.